Europe 2023: Tübingen – Hohenneuffen

Tübingen – Donau

Day 21

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

We got on an express bus to connect with the train that went to our final ‘away’ destination, but it stopped just outside of town because of a malfunction? It was pretty weird, especially with how the bus driver chose to deal with it – by pulling into a gas station and yelling at other bus drivers, trying to get their attention so they would… stop and help him? somehow? Anyway, eventually he got back on with someone else who just made him drive the rest of the way, idk. Then we took a tiny little train (almost a glorified tram rather than a train) that ended in the village of Neuffen. You look up, and you see the castle.

Hellooo up there

We got to the edge of the parkland that surrounded the mountain (there’s a playground that includes a small zipline, I tried it out wheeeee), and from there climbed pretty much straight up for a ways, then had a little snack on a bench surrounded by wildflowers. Then we went into the forest, and proceeded to get lost of course. It was my fault as usual, I saw a path that looked much more interesting than the path we were on. And we certainly saw some very nice trees and rocks. The higher we got, the more we expected to see the castle – but apparently it’s not close enough to the edge of the slope to be visible through the trees like that. We had lunch on a bench when we finally made it to the top; Tharash had bought a pretzel.

Doesn’t look too complicated to get to the top, right?

Yeah no this is what we actually did : P The map marker is I think where we had a snack.

The meadow below the forest, where we had a snack

Gorgeous macro picture of some kind of shield-shaped beetle on the bench where we had a snack. Photo by MH

My phone does not do macro : P

Magical fairy tree. Lots of limestone chips around; I wondered if they were there naturally or if they were a product of building the castle, but that’s a bit of a silly question; they’re undoubtedly there naturally. Photo by MH

Almost imperceptible path due to my bad decisions. Photo by MH

Lots of these weird little red berry plants near the top

The castle is in kind of a half-preserved-but-still-mostly-ruined state. It has so many big shapes and structures, and it just keeps going up. Y’know what’s weird is actually my paranoia settled down a bit here; I reasoned that if it hasn’t fallen down yet despite being 1000 years old, it’ll last a few more days. So I could better enjoy going into cavernous storerooms and climbing towers. The stone was very cold in the shade, I can definitely imagine the storerooms being very effective as a fridge for dairy and meat. They also have lovely acoustics.

The road to the gate. There was a puppy on a leash with a lady, I remember.

First gate. Photo by MH

Those are the remains of upper storerooms up there. Photo by MH

There’s a tree on top of this fyi

Photo by MH

Those lower windows are to more storerooms, very dark, arched, echoey, like caves.

That arch is a modern construction. It was an arch in its later incarnations too, but in its first incarnations it was a drawbridge. Also there used to be another gatehouse at the sticking-out square bit. Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

The second gate

It feels very far down already

There are even a few trees growing on top of certain towers, which boggles my mind a bit. We saw some birds of prey in the distance. From the very highest tower, I took a 300° panorama. There’s such a view of the valleys on one side, and the hills on the other, it feels like being on top of the world. And I imagine how that felt to the people who originally lived there, who didn’t have things like skyscrapers or planes (not that those give the same feeling anyway…).

Photo by MH

Through the magic of photography, I have disappeared! Photo by MH

The lower storerooms

Photo by MH

Looking down on the ramp bridge up to the second gate. Photo by MH

This is from the top of the big round tower that we walked past previously

There’s a tree on it!

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Corvids! Photo by MH

Looking down at the first gate. Photo by MH

Entrance to the tunnel to the upper storerooms that are visible from the first gate, and also the previous couple pictures

Looking out of the storeroom. Photo by MH

The courtyard has this nice sign showing how old different parts of the castle are. Brown is from the 15th century, I guess grey-blue is from the 16th century (they handily put a fastener over the colour key, thanks guys), and light blue is from the 18th century. Got pretty elaborate.

This picture’s kind of from the cafe area.

I like this road winding into the highlands beyond the village. Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

This is the 330 degree panorama from the highest tower. It felt like being on top of the world. It was glorious.

Looking down at the gatehouse from part of the wall. I liked how many paths there were to get around the castle.

Photo by MH

Looking down at the bathrooms : P

Looking down at the gate from even higher! Photo by MH

Looking down into the upper storerooms.

In the courtyard

Period illustration from 1750

View from the bathroom terrace

There’s a little café in one building that’s been restored enough for functions, and so we got some tea and cake with the view from the terrace. I couldn’t quite catch for myself the vibe of being a medieval person, but oh well, it was very tasty. I had mandarin orange cheesecake and Tharash had apple pie.

Near the cafe order window

Tea and cake! Photo by MH

Even this drain is cool to me

That tunnel goes to the lower storerooms but I was more interested in the ruined windows some more

Photo by MH

Hohenneuffen
– Aesthetic: 8/10 – excellent partially restored preserved ruin.
– Fortifications: 10/10 – with the steep paths, the multiple gates, the drawbridge/arch, the multiple layers of being able to aim down at attackers, not to mention the defensive terraforming of later centuries, it looks pretty formidable.
– Historicity: 7/10 – I kind of wish a little more of it was restored so you felt more what it was like to live there, but it’s very fun to explore all the different routes around the castle.
– Location: 9/10 – commands the most amazing view, you can see it and be seen by it for miles
Total castle rating: 8.5/10

Our walk back down was incredibly uneventful because we actually followed the path. Back at our dorm, we cooked dinner – a baked dish involving eggs and vegetables. We made a new friend named Sam, who works at the university (doing a doctorate?); he’s from America but he and his wife came for degrees in Germany. We traded Discord info but haven’t spoken since lol. So goes Discord acquaintances.

Bye castle. Also the power lines that go to the castle. Photo by MH

Into the village along tiny rustic lanes

Train station in Neuffen

Flowers in a flowerbox on the Neckar bridge, being very busily tended to by bees. There were so many honeybees all over this one flowerbox! Also there was an ant highway along the railing from one flowerbox to the next.

beeeeeeeeeer (and paprika chips, we bought a bag when we arrived and rationed it out carefully)

fooooooooood

Day 22

We slept in a bit, and then went into the old town to look for any last souvenirs we wanted. Tharash had been hoping to find a specific folk-metal CD by a German band, but unfortunately this small-ish town was not the place to find large CD shops. We walked by the BDSM Spiderman again, and we went to some of the souvenir stores by the markets. There were tons of things I could have bought for my family; one thing I got for my dad was the tinest bottle of Tübingen whisky. I also got a couple of little ammonite fossils; apparently they’re so common in the area that you can just buy them, cut in half and polished.

We went for a bit of a walk on the island in the middle of the river, and saw how the trees there are basically all strapped together to keep them from falling over. Medical issues? Anyway I really needed a bathroom after that, and there was a public washroom just below the church with the organ, but only one stall had toilet paper left. D: We then went to an organ lunch concert in the church, which was free. It was probably by a student, as their pieces did not have a lot of pedal, and it was a bit weak. Still, I got to hear the organ again! And it’s good practice for whoever it was.

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

These trees are so old they’ve had to tie them together so they don’t fall over

They either have these huge growths on them

Or they’re completely hollow

Pigeon coop?

Bach Well-Tempered Clavier and some Buxtehude, good taste.

We had lunch on the island, and then went back to the church to climb the bell tower. You have to go through the rafters to get to the tower. I think we saw our residence but I’m not totally sure which building it was exactly.

The top of the wall just… stops. Like it’s a Valheim construction or something.

Spare organ pipes! (?)

Bells! Photo by MH

That’s a big ‘un

Photo by MH

Castle. Photo by MH

Castle! Photo by MH

Rathaus. Photo by MH

Just looking straight down from the tower. Was afraid of dropping my phone even though obviously I kept a tight grip on it. (I haven’t even mentioned half my nervous moments from this time period, but my paranoia of sudden mishap/death was not getting better. If I didn’t mention already, my therapist suggested it was just travel stress manifesting in ways that appear irrational)

I wasn’t sure if I was allowed to take a picture of the cool sarcophagi of the nobility who had been buried in the church, but I had to take a picture of this eldritch horror deer.

Slightly less eldritch from the side.

Photo by MH

Then we took the bus to the university botanical garden, which was huge. Everything was carefully labelled, of course, but there were so many plants from all over the world, including many from Japan and Canada which stood out to me. Also interesting was the pharmaceuticals corner where they had plants that were used in medicines, y’know before we figured out how to extract the useful chemicals out of the plants. There was a massive tropical greenhouse with multiple staircases to upper levels and look-outs. There were ponds, and a big old catfish. There were a lot of plants that provide spices for our spice cupboards, but it wasn’t the flowering or fruiting season so we didn’t see the edible parts for most of them.

Succulents are the cutest

Succulents! Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Japanese rhododendron, I think

Photo by MH

Photo by MH

The Japanese-aesthetic part of the garden, clearly : P

Photo by MH

This looks familiar (apparently the tag is for Oregon Grape, sounds about right)

Photo by MH

Tall pitcher plants. Photo by MH

Smoll pitcher plants. Photo by MH

Photo by MH

Wildflower(?) gardens outside the greenhouse, just past the medicinal area

Baby grapefruits, I think it was?

Big ol’ catfish

A banana tree I think?? Photo by MH

There was, oddly enough, a display of beans in a hallway – it seems there are varieties all over the world, and they had a collection of a dozen or so of as many types as they could get. There was also a cactus garden, and man they look pretty funny. For some reason there was a very small aquarium room with shiny little fish? Then the garden was closing soon so we left, and we hadn’t even seen half of it yet haha.

All the beans

Fish. They were even prettier and more iridescent in person

Tharash went to the washroom so I walked pretty fast through the desert rooms. Man, cacti are weird

And then after showing Tharash the cacti and the fish, walked even faster to the exit because it was time to leave (no one chased us out, but we wanted to be punctual)

We returned to our residence to rest, we were pretty tired. We had maybe pushed a bit too hard at the garden, underestimated how big it would be. We got in touch with Khem, who suggested four different places for dinner, but each of us preferred a different two of the places, so Khem suggested burgers. So we got burgers. I had a Mediterranean burger, which came with a tiny side salad with honey mustard dressing that was very good. Then we went to get ice creams. I got a scoop of cookie-flavoured ice cream, but Tharash decided to get something fancy. Unfortunately I forget what exactly.

Group photo!!!!!

Last views from our window. It’s crazy to look at that horizon and think about how ancient it is (partly because every land formation is ancient)

Day 23

Okay I didn’t make notes for the travel back home, because I wasn’t expecting to take six+ months to write it out. But we took the train back to Stuttgart, which is in the middle of building a new hauptbahnhof, and that got us on a high-speed train to Cologne. They showed the top speed on the screen that shows the next station, and I think we got over 350km/h, iirc. In Cologne, I went to use the washroom, which cost a euro but that’s fine (I think they have contactless payment, which is much more convenient than needing to have a euro coin). Tharash went to get a snack, and got a tomato strudel! Then we made it in to Amsterdam, and then to Diemen, and we relaxed there for the evening.

In the morning, Tharash took me to Schiphol, because his train back home goes through Schiphol so it wasn’t out of his way in the slightest. I was super impressed by the security at Schiphol, it was so smooth and efficient – like you know the bins that you put your stuff in to go through the x-ray machine? After you use them, they go in a slot that takes them to a hidden conveyor belt that deposits them back at the beginning! No one has to gather them up and carry them over to the start, no one at the start is ever waiting for a bin, it’s fantastic! Why is that not standard everywhere??? Also they don’t ask you to take your liquids/gels and laptops out of your bag, although they might ask your shoes off if they’re bigger than sneakers/slip-ons. The real pain came at the passport scan stations, it’s more or less automated but it’s still rather slow and they only have like six booths.

But eventually I made it into the airport and made a beeline for the Tony’s Chocolonely store, where I bought several flavours, a couple of which I hadn’t seen at the import store near my house at home. After that, I think my plane went through Toronto, and I had a long and dull wait there. I walked around several times, and I found something that looked like stroopwafels with maple syrup instead of regular stroopwafel syrup – I’d been wondering if that was possible, so I felt vindicated. Eventually I got on my last plane, but I’m annoyed at the crew – they called zone 1, zone 2, zone 3… and then instead of calling zone 4, or “all zones”, they did their “final call, everyone should be on the plane now” and then had the audacity to be annoyed at me for freaking out a little. And I wasn’t the only person caught out by that.

A cute cleaning bot in Schiphol!

These clouds just look unreal.

“Paper” airplanes in Toronto!

I did not buy any, why would I buy tourist stuff in my own country?

Very different unreal clouds

At least the running sunset was beautiful, as we chased it west. When night fell, it was very difficult to see what was below the plane. I could see the lights of towns and cities, but I couldn’t tell when we were over Vancouver, for instance. Anyway, it was good to be home.

One thing I didn’t show until now were the collector’s coins that I bought from several different locations.

Brugge Belfort, Aachener Dom, Reichsburg Cochem, Heidelberg, Universitätsstadt Tübingen, and Burg Hohenneuffen

Most of these came out of special vending machines. The Heidelberg machine was broken so I bought it from the shop stall that owned the machine. The Aachen, Cochem, and Heidelberg are all from the same set, they all have “National Tokens – Deutsche Münzkollektion 2023” on the back along with an image of the outline of Germany with the Brandenburg Gate inset in it. Bruges has on the back “National Tokens – Belgian Heritage 2023” with an outline of Belgium with the letter B set in it. It’s also silvery compared to the gold colour of the German ones. The Tübingen and Hohenneuffen ones are obviously pressed pennies, because I couldn’t find more matching ones but the designs looked cool anyway.

And I’m going to do it all again in nine hours tomorrow. Whoo!

EDIT: and now I’m back and have to write more blog posts!!!!

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